From the Pirate Queen to John Lennon
by Michael Cusack
The great 19th century author William Thackeray wrote of Clew Bay, “…the bay and the Reek, which sweeps down to the sea, and the hundred isles in it, were dressed up in gold and purple and crimson, with the whole cloudy west in a flame. Wonderful, wonderful!”
Local legend has it that when Yoko Ono had a different experience when she first stepped on the isolated island of Dorinish in the late 1960’s. She was swooped upon by nesting terns and swore never to return.
John Lennon had earlier arranged for a wooden “gypsy caravan” painted in psychedelic colours to be brought from London and floated out to the island on a purpose built raft as a temporary home. He later agreed to allow Sid Rawle, the “King of the Hippies” to establish a commune on the island.
Dorinish (pronounced ‘Dorinch’ locally) is just one of many named islands and large rocks in Clew Bay described in the new book by Michael Cusack.
The largest of these is Clare Island, home of the “Pirate Queen” Grace O’Malley. This 16th century legend imposed her will on countless ships in the area. As a result, she was famously invited to meet a curious Queen Elizabeth. O’Malley refused to bow before Elizabeth because she did not perceive her as the Queen of Ireland. Their discussion was carried out in Latin, as O’Malley spoke no English and Elizabeth spoke no Irish.
Some 12,000 years before Granuaile, Clew Bay was covered in ice. As the temperature rose and the ice retreated, wave like patterns left sediment on the surface of the land, leaving these drumlins sloping from west to east with their massive boulder clay cliffs.
It isn’t hard to be inspired by this part of the world. It is one of nature’s great spectacles and as Cusack points out, it only takes a few minutes climb on Croagh Patrick to see why. Its swarm of drumlins is unlike anything else in western Europe. Local lore suggests that there is one island for each day of the year.
The author was surprised to find that while Clew Bay is often mentioned as a stunning example of a ‘drumlin swarm’, virtually nothing had previously been written the social history and geography of these islands with the exception of Clare Island. As there are another 141 named islands in the bay, along with countless unnamed tidal islands and drowned drumlins, Cusack rightly felt it was time to memorialise these.
He researched census records going back before the famine years in the mid-19th century and found that in 1841 there were over 1500 people living on 35 inner islands of the bay, and another 1600 on Clare Island alone. At the last count in 2011, there were just 25 people living on 6 inner islands, and the population of Clare Island had dropped to just 168. Using references like ordnance survey maps from 1848, field research and interviews, the national archives, and dozens of Internet sources, Cusack was able to piece together the first complete picture of the bay.
The book describes all of the inner islands of Clew Bay, including Inishraher, which is now a “Maharishi Capital of the Global Headquarters of World Peace” for the Transcendental Meditation organisation, and Inishturk Beg, which was bought and developed by the millionaire Nadim Sadek. Other curious stories about the smaller islands of the bay are highlighted – like Inishdaugh with its legend of hidden Danish gold; Inishgowla with its valley and lake of fresh water; and the lobster so big it has been trapped for thirty years in the cabin of a sunken ship off Inishgort.
The most striking icon around this jewel of the Wild Atlantic Way is Croagh Patrick, known locally as “The Reek”. This beautiful mountain dominates the landscape as seen from the vibrant town of Westport. It is on this 765-metre summit that Saint Patrick fasted for forty days even while vanquishing the snakes into Lugnademon – the “Hollow of the Serpents”.
Other stories abound, like the successful opposition to Gold Mining led by people like the late Paddy Hopkins and the British environmentalist David Bellamy in 1989; the 43 shipwrecks lying beneath the Atlantic waves, including two ships of the Spanish Armada; the Tochar Padraig – a pilgrimage trail Saint Patrick was said to have followed, but which was once part of a much longer trail stretching all of the way to Rathcroghan – the home of the High Kings of Connaught – and some say even Tara itself; the southern wilderness with its Western Way and the Famine Road; then there is magical Brackloon Wood on the slopes of the mountain – with its stone circle and ringfort; and the other Bronze age remnants all around the Reek.
These and other stories are all a part of “Croagh Patrick and the Islands of Clew Bay – A Guide to the Edge of Europe”. For the first time every island in Clew Bay, their history and other details, have been explored for the armchair traveler, along with tales of the great mountain and other remarkable aspects of this area.
About the Author
Michael Cusack first climbed Croagh Patrick at the age of six and countless times since. His grandfather Peter Hopkins was one of the last Clew Bay pilots and his great-great grandfather was the Admiralty Pilot for the west coast of Ireland. Cusack spent several years racing on the Irish national cycling team before moving to Vienna, where he worked as a furniture restorer, and later Saudi Arabia, where he became a recreation specialist and was privileged to travel to places like Mongolia, China, Kenya, Russia, Zimbabwe and then on to America, where he got married, obtained a master’s degree, raised his two sons and worked as a business analyst before returning to Ireland about 18 months ago.
CLICK HERE TO BUY THE BOOK